Removing mildew from leather jackets

Does any one know how to remove mildew from leather flight jackets, specifically ones that have been painted on the back with unit insignias and art work. I recieved one today at the museum that was damp and extensively mildewed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dave

David Procaccini
Grandson of Sgt. Louis Procaccini
38th ADG Repair Squadron
North Africa-Italy-France
Achivist, Quonset Air Museum
Historian 38th Depot Repair Sqdn

The most common forms of deterioration in leather are due to prolonged dryness, mold, mildew and fungus, U/V light, insects and vermin, and last but not least, the reaction of the 'tanning' with atmospheric pollutants such as sulphur dioxide (acid rain). Thus, leather needs to be protected from these agents of deterioration. Mold, mildew, fungus and chemical attach can be detetted through the application of a solution of 7% Potassium Lactate and 1/4% Paranitrophenol to the object. If the object shows signs of mold spores, it shold be brushed with a medium nylon bristle tooth brush to remove the spores before application of the protective solution. This solution is available in a liquid pre-mixed product marketed by Talas, Division of Technical Library Services, 213 W. 35th, New York, NY 10001. It is called Talas Leather Protector and comes in gallons. It is a deacidifier, cleaner, buffering salt and fungistat which will also prevent the occurance of 'red rot' which so often attacks vegetable tanned leather. It is basically non-toxic to humans, but rubber gloves should be worn when applying any solvents, liquids, etc. The protector should be applied sparingly but thoroughly, using a soft cloth or sponge. It should be allowed to soak into the leather and air dry. This product is very valuable in conserving your leather objects.
Any application of the protector or dressings to areas where there is 'War Art' involved should be done slowly using Q-tips to work the solution/dressing into leather around the art and light pressure so as to not disturb the painted surfaces.
 
Dry, rigid or brittle leather may be made flexible again by proper lubrication or replacement of natural moisture with emollients such as neat's foot oil, cedarwood oil, lanolin or a combination of these. The proper ratio of neat's foot oil to lanolin is 60% neat's foot oil to 40% lanolin. SInce lanolin generally is found in a semi-solid form, it has to be heated to reduce it to a liquid before mixing with the neat's foot oil. This is a purist, traditional method of making leather dressing which is unnecessary in today's applications. Talas markets a pre-mixed leather dressing combining these two oils. It is marketed as Talas Leather Dressing. My experience has shown me that the best all around leather dressing is British Museum Leather Dressing or BMLD. It was develped by the British Museum and consists of lanolin, beeswax, cedarwood oil and hexane. The lanolin and cedarwood oil lubricate the leather fibers while th beeswax acts as a sealer and imparts a nice sheen to the leather when buffed.

SHAEF1944 American Veterans Museum

Thanks SHAEF. Have you ever heard of a 1 to 1 mix of denatured alcohol and water being used? Saddle soap? Do you think they will remove the paint? Dave

David Procaccini
Grandson of Sgt. Louis Procaccini
38th ADG Repair Squadron
North Africa-Italy-France
Achivist, Quonset Air Museum
Historian 38th Depot Repair Sqdn

Have not heard about the alcohol/water.  On the saddle soap, what I've read in museum/restoration literature is that it was used almost universally, but has been found to leave a residue that shows up on the leather after several years if not applied just right.
On any paintwork, best bet is to use a mild soap and water applied gently with Q-Tips or cottonballs, and keep all chemicals off the paint. Heavy emphasis on the GENTLY. Then use Q-tips to work leather dressing around the edges of the artwork into the unpainted leather.

SHAEF1944 American Veterans Museum